INTRODUCTION

Founded by the Phoenicians, graced by the presence of the Greeks, raised up by the Romans, visited by the Visigoths, joined by the Jews, made magnificent by the Moors before conquered and crowned by the Christians. And all that had occurred before 1492 when Seville then became the most important city in the world. That is the historical legacy of Seville to say nothing of their colourful present. But how much does the average European know of this city when compared with other cities like Venice, Florence or Prague, all of comparable size and stature? Very little is the answer and yet this is the city that has stamped itself all over the subconscious of anyone who can conjure up an image of Spain. When one thinks of Spain and its culture they actually focus on Sevilla and her legacy. It is now high time to meet face to face the city that has given Spain her historical soul and the world a flight of fancy.

For anyone picking up a travel book to read, they expect the text to take them away from their routine and off, for them, to an undiscovered part of the globe. And while being introduced to the people and their characteristic way of life be enlightened with the quirks of their local custom and culture and amused by anecdotal misgivings on behalf of the traveller. When the book reaches its final resting place on the bookshelf the reader should have enjoyed their journey, feel they have accomplished something worthwhile and that part of the experience will stay with them like memories of endearing friendship.

If after having read this book they do not feel akin to Sevilla, enchanted by its historic mix of colourful influences or touched by its lust for life then I will have failed in my task. But if the image of this city does take root in your subconscious and its portrait does manage to inspire learning and longing for a taste of inner (not costa) Andalucía then I shall rest assured during siesta time. It is my desire to imbue the reader with a direct and true appraisal of what must surely be a city with a message, not just for its own citizens but with enough to offer of itself to spill over beyond its frontiers. I only wish to add help the flow along.

Possibly the most memorable and exhilarating day of my life was on 7th September 1993 when I stood at Heathrow airport, Spain bound ready to begin a new life in a new country speaking a new language. I knew nobody there, had no accommodation lined up and even lesser idea of the city and the country itself. It was what I had always dreamt of doing and even though it wasn’t exactly the sort of adventure that would stand the test of time in English literature as a classic, for me at least it was the world awaiting. As G.K. Chesteron had once observed it wasn’t necessary to travel the world to find adventure, one simply had to jump over the garden fence and present themselves to their neighbour.

I thought I would never relive those moments of intrepid and delicious insecurity again until that was I found myself standing at La Plaza de Armas bus station two years later with 40º degrees beating down on me with cumbersome baggage in tow. Little then did I realise I would be staying for good.

They are great moments to savour and I hope that everyone gets the chance to have their senses completely rearranged in this unsettling and preconception erasing way. I took my first tentative steps into Sevilla and new the adventure would begin the moment I engaged a native in conversation for these are truly garrulous people. It was time to meet the neighbours...

“Buenos días, soy Mark. ¿Y Ústed?”